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(Modest amounts of in-camera sharpening are usually okay, however.) ![]() Sharpening and resizing, in particular, should be deferred until after noise reduction when possible. Adjustments like these can shift pixel values and distort noise levels in unpredictable ways, and this can make it more difficult for Noise Ninja to remove the noise effectively. Trouble installing photoninja how to#I found the following excerpt from their users guide to be very useful in determining how to do noise reduction based on image types:Īs a general principle, you should apply noise reduction as early as is practical in your workflow - ideally, before other editing operations like tone adjustment, color balancing, sharpening, or resizing. The team at Noise Ninja is all about noise reduction – that’s all they do – so they are hard core about what is required to get the best balance of noise reduction and detail preservation. Some of you might prefer the Noise Brush since it avoids masks and returns results with the edits made in the user interface. This is similar to the brush functionality in Nik Software’s Dfine product, but I prefer Dfine’s implementation of U-Point and Brush much better. However, unlike Noiseware, you can use the Noise Brush to control where noise reduction is applied and where it is masked. Just like with Noiseware, I do my noise reduction changes on a merged layer (CTRL+SHIFT+ALT+E) in Photoshop so I can undo if I change my mind later. While some of you won’t need this kind of precision, it’s a powerful feature to know that you have at your disposal – especially for those doing astrophotography or microscopy work where important data can’t be mistaken for noise. Trouble installing photoninja download#I’ll do this later in this article to show what difference it makes, but even if you don’t do that you can download profiles off their site to get you started. Trouble installing photoninja iso#You can even go to the extreme and create custom profiles own using the same exact lens, aperture and ISO that was used for the picture in question. If you are super cautious, you can create your own profiles. This gives Noise Ninja a good idea about what is noise and what is not from your camera. To get the best results you’ll want to see “Auto matched:” followed by your camera (or scanner) profile loaded. Here’s the user interface for Noise Ninja 2.2 (build 2.2.0b): This isn’t necessarily a negative because it is also the most advanced and offers significant control over how your image is processed. Of all the products in this roundup, the user-interface for Noise Ninja was probably the complex and intimidating. ![]() Visit their site for some samples of what this product can do, and watch their videos which demonstrate how to use Noise Ninja, do batch processing and how to integrate with Lightroom. ![]() In addition they make profiling charts available so you can create your own profile for your camera and lens for the most advanced auto profiling possible. They’ve given their users the most options to calibrate their noise profiling through camera and scanner profiles so you can get the best results possible for your device. Just read their docs or talk to anyone on the PictureCode team, and you’ll quickly discover that this company knows a ton about noise reduction. PictureCode is all about noise reduction and is very hard core. Big name sites like and have sworn by this product, and it is the only product I used for noise reduction prior to this article. This is the standard by which all other noise reduction products will be measured, and the grand daddy of them all. Trouble installing photoninja pro#If you talk to most pro photographers (especially photo journalists) and ask them what they use for noise reduction and the answer will almost always be the same – Noise Ninja. ![]()
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